An Honoured Guest Contributor

For those of you who know me - or those of you who have skimmed my Blog (I'm visualizing this massive following of anonymous groupies out there), you will be familiar with my affection for Anthony Bourdain. So I was quite envious when one of my friends (an occasional comment-contributor under the nom-de-plum of Wine & Food Guy), had the occasion to dine at Les Halles on a recent trip to New York. While not quite the same as being there.... (let's face it, it's nothing like being there....) he did offer to write a review on his experience so that some of us might live vicariously through him.

So with no further ado, here is Wine & Food Guy's review of Les Halles:

Kids in Les Halles

Brasserie Les Halles and Market
411 Park Avenue South
At 29th Street
New York, N.Y.
212-679-4111
www.LesHalles.net

Open 7 days a week, 8:00 a.m. to 12 midnight.

New York really is one of the most spectacular cities in the world and its restaurants offer some of the very best (and some of the most expensive) dining options on the planet.

Les Halles, the current home of uber celebrity chef, Anthony Bourdain, is what you might expect of a French Brasserie, at least one that is located thousands of miles away from the hustle and bustle of a true French Brasserie located in the Latin Quarter of Paris or somewhere in the South of France. It serves typical French bistro style food, in a dark atmosphere with a great bar and appropriate décor (think large mirrors, posters of French champagne and wine producers, simple wooden chairs, dark paneling and wait staff with plenty of that French “je ne sais quoi?” attitude).

Not that Mr. Bourdain is likely to be seen cooking (cheffing?) anywhere on the premises. He is most likely working on some other vanity project or thinking of another way to travel the globe (on someone else’s dollar) looking for interesting and unique food options. The location on Park Avenue is one of two locations in New York, with the newer and larger location set in New York’s Financial District.

So it was with much enthusiasm that we set out to try Les Halles and test the waters of French Brasserie cooking in the Big Apple. Having confirmed the date and time of our reservation over the internet, we were somewhat surprised to find out that they had the time of our reservation incorrect. No matter. This was quickly and efficiently resolved with smiles all around. Although the restaurant is bigger than I expected, the size does not detract from the atmosphere. It is warm and inviting and easily gives one the sense that you could possibly be in France on a special night out at a local restaurant. What does detract, however, is the somewhat odd, but understandable once explained, meat counter in the restaurant along with your typical (think over-used and cliché) dessert counter. (It seems that this is the “Market” section of the restaurant, where the butcher sells select cuts of meats and has a regular clientele.) The other oddity, is the shelves of canned goods which are likely used to provide more of that French Brasserie-like décor. This however does not explain the unusual placement of jars of Nuttella and cans of Pam (yes, the non-stick cooking spray) that sit there on the shelf, looking very much out of place and in need of a new home (perhaps the kitchen would work). Perhaps these are big “Market” sellers for the restaurant?

Once seated in our dark little corner, we were soundly abused by our ‘oh so French’ waitress, who took great exception to my questions regarding the limited wine list. After selecting a magnum of Bordeaux Superieur, I was informed…

Waitress: “I do not recommend that wine.”
Me: “Why is that? Is there something wrong with the wine?”
Waitress: “I do not recommend the wine!”

Brilliant, and to the point! This of course could have gone on all night, but I preferred to get on with the wining and dining (once a wine was finally recommended and selected). The food was generally, quite good. Especially if a well executed steak frites or duck confit, with fresh baquette and “beure au sel” is your idea of a bit of heaven on earth.

Ohhh the butter, the sweet salty delicious butter. This along with the perfect French baquette, may have been the highlight of the evening, although that would only serve to diminish the quality of the overall experience and very pleasant meal.

The Salad Landaise au Canard (Duck confit with frisee salad) was also well worth the visit and exactly as expected. My Steak au Poivre, Frites was perhaps the most peppery steak I’ve ever had the pleasure of enjoying. A real standout! The regular Steak Frites et Salad was also very good, but how could they go wrong. The only noted item of concern was the proverbial frite. French fry really, not the authentic shoestring frites one would expect from a Brasserie. But they were fried in a great oil (duck fat, perhaps) and quite decadent.

I missed seeing Mr. Bourdain and I know a casual visit to our table would have elevated our dining experience from very good to somewhat amazing. Despite the lack of a mega star chef, I would easily return with no hesitation, if for no other reason, just for the butter and baquette.

Also recommended is Lombardi’s Pizza in Little Italy, New York’s oldest pizzeria. If you find yourself in Manhattan with a craving for authentic wood-oven thin-crust pizza, make your way to Lombardi’s for the most amazing meatball pizza ever! The clam pizza is also highly recommended according to both Zagat and our Waitress.

Lombardi’s
32 Spring Street
(Btw. Mott & Mulberry Sts.)
New York, N.Y.212-941-7994