And the best of the four

OK - we've spent 4 nights at 4 of the top restaurants in Eastern Canada (if not all of Canada according to Enroute magazine), plus a few more evenings at a couple of "seriously good places to go" if you happen to be in the vicinity (like Kingston and Cobourg) and looking for a place to eat a fine meal. Friday's meal was at Beckta, in Ottawa. This was not our first time to eat at Beckta - we had dinner there the first year they opened - but it has been a couple of years so it was nice to return.

We've heard some disquieting things about Beckta since we last ate there - a drop in service, a drop in food quality - but from our experience last night, I can't possibly understand where these comments come from. Of the restaurants we have eaten in over the past two weeks, Beckta clearly ranks as Number One. This is Number One over the #3 and #1 ranked new restaurants in Canada, as rated by Enroute magazine, and Number One over one of the consistently top rated restaurants in Canada.

I don't want to spend alot of time providing a review of my meal because I think each item on the menu is probably equivalently good and equally innovative. I started with a Raw Crudite - sashimi'd Tilapia with a cucumber and daikon vinaigrette salad. This was an amazing combination - the Tilapia was so fresh and the salad was really refreshing. Drops of Wasabi sauce were provided as an accompaniment. It was perfect.

As an entree I had Sweetbreads in a Shiitake Mushroom Sauce with a Mushroom Ragout. The sweetbreads were lightly crispy and very fluffy - similar to my first experience at Le Club Chasse et Peche; and the sauce was sweet but perfectly balanced with the mushroom ragout.

We enjoyed an innovative cheese plate to accompany the last of our wine.

So, why number one? My dining partner and I considered each restaurant on the basis of 4 criteria:

Atmosphere

• Le Club Chasse et Peche probably wins out here by a small margin over Avalon - it is warmer and cozier, which suits our fancy, although our table at Avalon was well situated next to our private little fire spot. Beckta was a tad too worn - plus we had to put up with the pretentious 20-something conversation of two mindless sops, clearly intimidated by the surroundings, who were placed a tad too close - although this did have an entertainment value.

Service

• Avalon probably squeeks by here - albeit it's a pretty close shave with Le Club Chasse et Peche. Both were very attentive - the former put us at ease immediately; the latter was obviously focused on our colleagues and as a result they might well score Chasse et Peche higher - in summary, it's pretty close. Beckta's service was impeccable - we were well attended but the waiter was a tad too stiff and failed to really establish a rapport with us. One thing I would add in Beckta's favour was their pre-dinner service. They phoned me in advance to ask two very fundamental questions: a) did any body who was dining have any food sensitivities about which they should be aware, and b) was there a special occasion that was being celebrated. I cannot underestimate the value associated with these two questions. Who wants to phone a restaurant and suckingly mention that it is your... anniversay... your birthday... your parents anniversary....the anniversary of your dog's death.... a family reunion or an anniversay of graduation..... just so you can try to get some free wine or something... Isn't it nice to have that uncomfortable "I'm looking for that little extra" comment taken out of your hands by the restaurant's service... that is huge in my books;

Menu

• Menu's are obviously hugely important; I'm not looking for a lot on a menu, but I am looking for creativity, variety and taste. When you find one it is pure enjoyment just to read. Garcon and Le Club Chasse et Peche had good menu's - neither were outstanding. Avalon was very good - particularly among appetizers. Beckta's was outstanding. Across the appetizers, entree's and deserts it was unique, creative and distinct - distinct from other restaurants and distinct from the other dishes on the menu.

Taste and Presentation

• The next logical progression from the menu is the dish itself. It's one thing for it to show up on a menu - it's an entirely different challenge to follow through in taste and presentation. On this, Beckta rules. My appetizer was original, well presented and fresh - as was that of my dining partner who had a lobster salad roll, which I tasted and could learn from. The sweetbreads were terrific, and my partner's tenderloin was unique in its presentation.

Washrooms

• OK - you've now seen a thread here from 3 other entries. In my opinion the state of the washrooms is important. Le Club Chasse et Peche had it nailed; Garcon was pretty good too. And the connection? They're both in Montreal. But Beckta was right up there. It was clean, it was well designed, and there were individual towletts. Avalon did not rate.

And there you have it: the criteria upon which I am ranking 4 of the top restaurants in Canada. All of them priced in a similar stratosphere -about $310 for two people, including wine and tip. And Beckta ranked number one. So the total ranking...

And there you have it. In My Humble Opinion - the Number One restaurant of the one's we attended is right here in Ottawa. Beckta.