What grows on land, grows in the Sea

One of the things I really love about the Byward Market is the relationship that I've fostered with a number of the vendors, those in the outside stalls, and those in the shops. Walking into the Byward Fruit Market is like heading over to a friend's place for a quick pint to catch up on gossip.

It's a few minutes after I walk in that Isaac notices me. I'm hovering around the mini-cauliflower and, without welcoming words, he announces, "I've got something for you". Assuming that I'm following, without slowing down, he heads to the front of the shop, to a table to the left of the cash register where he reaches for a small plastic bag that contains what appears to be green twigs.

"Sea Asparagus", he says excitedly, holding out a small piece for me to sample, assured that I won't let him down and instinctively knowing that I'll appreciate it.

Inspecting it for a few seconds I trustingly put it in my mouth and immediately taste the mellow, yet strong saltiness of the sea - it's crisp! Its thin stem crunches as I bite down - and yet minutes later I continue to enjoy what I can only describe as a smooth, buttery aftertaste.

Sea Asparagus is actually a marginal sea plant, harvested not from the sea, but the shallow estuaries that flow from it, along the coast of British Columbia, growing just below the high tide line.

"How did you find this?" I ask, now holding a small bag that I have every intention of buying - at the same time, glancing at the price, $2.49, expecting it to be much more. It reminded me of a "nickle bag". . . from the movies, of course!

Apparently some of the chefs have been asking for it - most notably Jean Chretien's former chef Jose Moniz, now cooking for the French Ambassador. With some guidance from Isaac, I'm told they most often saute it in butter, add to salads, or sprinkle as a garnish on fish.

A few minutes later, inspired by Isaac's observation of its use as a garnish, I headed to Lapointe's where I found myself in the role of an evangelist. Bumping into a friend from work I reached in to my bag and gave him no option but to try the "weed" - in the back of my mind I'm subconsciously thinking "Dude, it's reeeallly good shit"!

Shortly thereafter, as I headed back along the stalls, I was recognized by his wife, to whom I confessed my sin and predicted that she might find herself being used as a bit of a culinary guinea pig.

I got around to using the sea asparagus the next night, using it as a garnish on some Grouper that I had steamed in foil with leeks, butter and some slices of orange. The brilliant emerald green (I'd steamed it for 10 seconds) stood out magnificently against the white flesh of the Grouper and provided a wonderful salty crunch.

Thinking beyond Isaac's suggestions, I believe this is the type of light, accompanying vegetable that, used sparingly, will add a wonderful flair. I'm tempted to experiment with it - perhaps adding it to pasta, infusing it with colour and the flavor of the sea while blending perfectly with the pasta's al dente character; or as a garnish on something rich, like duck.

I visit the Byward Fruit Market on Saturday and Sunday, every weekend. I enjoy watching the people who venture in - trying to put names to the local Chefs, hiding in the background when the Governor General pays a visit, or watching (and eavesdropping on) Isaac as he approaches other clients that he knows will appreciate one of his recent finds. This weekend I, and hopefully some of my friends, benefitted from this relationship.