The Simple Pleasures

When I reflect on the things that have had a culinary influence on me, travel is unquestionably, and perhaps not surprisingly, at the top of the list. As a teenager, traveling to the Far East, I was profoundly affected by the smells, the noise and an exotic adolescent thrill that came with exploring the back alleys of Beijing - entertained by the local fish, vegetable and meat merchants, always with live animals hovering nearby. During my university years, at the end of each semester, I traveled to Israel where I wandered through the Souks in Jerusalem, the West Bank and Gaza, absorbing the hectic cackling of the bazaars while snacking on local olives, fresh round breads and falafel. On my first trip to Singapore, I experienced its hybrid cultures mixing together in food such as Nonya and Baba, a unique blend that brings together culinary influence from Malay (coconut milk, lemongrass) India (tamarind, cumin, cardomom and curry) and China. And I still hold that Arizona is one of the culinary capitals of the United States, after I spent the better part of a summer holed up in a Doubletree in Scottsdale. While working with a large US company on a Government proposal I relished the opportunity to go outside during the day to eat lunch in the dry saharan-like heat, while in the evenings I experienced some of the best southwestern cuisine for the first time in my life; on my return to Ottawa at the end of the summer I had to phone one of the restaurants (Cafe Terra Cotta) to get their recipe for a corn and shitake mushroom risotto.

But amongst these travels I still fall back on a trip to Provençe that I took with my wife a few years ago, for its defining influence on my cooking. It was this trip that instilled in me the taste of simple cuisine. On most days Kim and I would end up in a small bistro for an extended lunch, since most of the towns would close for three or four hours every afternoon. Each day before venturing out on our excursion we would head to the nearest town where it was a market day and provision for the evening meal. Stocking up early in the day was an important lesson that I learned on day two of the trip when I was caught out with nothing for dinner - this led to a terrific row (whoever said “hell hath no fury like a woman scorned” obviously never traveled with one who was hungry and tired). After storming out of the cottage for self-preservation and driving aimlessly through the Provençal countryside in search of something to pass for dinner, I eventually came across a single village store where I was able to buy some tomatoes, fresh herbs, cheese and bread - simple fare at its best.

But it was on a day trip to Arles where I discovered one of the simplest pleasures, and one that has become a mainstay in our house. . . rotisserie chicken (see blog entry for June 29, 2005), served with the tomatoes and potatoes that are roasted slowly underneath the chicken, collecting all the juices as it cooks.

A few weeks back I was challenged to a “Throw-down” - come up with a menu (original or inspired dishes or interpretations); the one that gets the most votes wins! I am not in the least competitive (consistently losing to a sibling does that to you) - but on it's own, this sounded fun. Overly enthusiastic, I misinterpreted what was a rather simple challenge and assumed that “menu” was ala a restaurant, as opposed to a single meal (however, I always think you need options), so I’ve added a few extra selections. Kim thinks the whole thing is a little bogus since you can’t taste any of it - a virtual meal as it were; I disagree since I believe a well described menu should let one imagine the taste . . . without the clean-up! Her comment was also a little disingenuous since she’s had every item on my menu at least once over the last month, with the exception of desert (I’m not a dessert person) - although I did make it not too long ago. As part of the challenge I initially suggested that we include the recipes of at least one of the dishes - however, since I never use recipes when I cook I’d be hard-pressed to come up with my own, so I chickened out on this one; but to help, I’ve described each item as I would if I was explaining it to a patron.

So here is my Menu, inspired by the simple food of Provençe.

Appetizer

Hickory smoked Pork Tenderloin with a Provençal Salsa
Pork tenderloin that has been marinated in red wine, shallots, and provençal herbs and then slow smoked with hickory chips for 4 hours; it’s served with a simple tomato and basil salsa with a drizzle of balsamic reduction.

Meat Balls in a Red Mushroom Jus
3 small meat balls that are made with strip loin and finely chopped bacon, shallots and herbs; served in a bowl with a rich sauce made from a reduction of porcini and veal stocks, red wine, tomatoes and herbs.

Soup

Wild Mushroom Bisque with Rosemary Perfume
Porcini, crimini, and black trumpet mushrooms bisque, infused with finely chopped rosemary and finished with shaved truffles and a dusting of smoked salt.

Salad

Oven-Roasted heirloom tomato topped with Pesto and Oxford Mills Sheep Cheese
Heirloom tomato that has been oven roasted for 3 hours; served on a nest of zucchini and finely chopped endive; topped with a drizzle of pesto and shaved locally made artisanal Tomme de Gaston from Oxford Mills Creamery; accompanied by an herbed crostini.

Entree

Steak Frites
Hand flattened Inside Round that has been marinated overnight in red wine, capers, shallots and herbs; seared and served with a bordelaise sauce; accompanied by hand cut french fries with aioli, and a celeriac remoulade.

Provençal-Style Rotisserie Chicken, served with roasted tomatoes and potatoes, with braised wild asparagus and morels
The life-blood of Provençe - a whole chicken that has been roasted on a spit over a bed of tomatoes and potatoes, mixed with fresh thyme and shallots that are served with the chicken; the juices provide a sauce for the rotisseried chicken; it’s accompanied by wild asparagus and morels that are braised in butter.

Steamed Char served on a bed of pasta, zucchini, and celeriac vermicelli, with a Tarragon-infused Hollandaise Sauce and a Ratatouille of Winter Vegetables
Arctic Char that is steamed with shallots and herbs, and served on a mixed bed of pasta, zucchini and celeriac noodles, with a tarragon infused hollandaise sauce; accompanied by a ratatouille of carrots, eggplant, peppers, parsnips and zucchini.

Desert

Frozen Grand Marnier Souffle, with truffle shavings
Frozen grand marnier souffle, served in an orange shell with shavings of dark chocolate truffle

Cheese Plate

A selection of artisanal cheeses from Quebec, including: Tomme de Gros Isles, Victor & Berthold, Sauvagine